Flea and tick season-get a natural product
Please be “green” with your pet. You can check out our Natural Cedar product that we carry. It’s harm-less to your pet. You can squirt it on their bedding, your rugs and your Pet. Smells good too. You can be confident you are treating your animal in a healthy way.
Never put a flea collar on your dog or cat. They are an irritant to the neck/body. Only put them INSIDE your Vacuum cleaner bag..it will kill any fleas that get Vacuumed up.
Miracles can happen!!! LOS ANGELES-NO KILL LAW…Let’s do it!!!
SHARE THIS WITH YOUR FRIENDS!!!! It’s good news that we need to spread!
DOG Grooming Tips-Easy to do!
Canine Grooming Tips by Dr. Jane from Life’s Abundance
No one likes a bad hair day … and that includes your dog. Just like with humans, the skin is the largest organ of a dog’s body. Every day, their skin and coats are exposed to UV rays, pollution, infectious agents, drying heat or wind. Because it can contribute to a dog’s overall health, grooming should be an essential part of companion animal care. While bathing a dog, I think all of us have experienced getting wetter than your dog, being interrupted by phone calls, or, worst of all, a sudsy canine tearing off, leaving a wet, sudsy trail behind him. As a veterinarian with a good deal of grooming experience, I can tell you that planning ahead can reduce unwanted problems and stress, so here are a handful of my best tips.
BEFORE THE GROOMING SESSION
Unfortunately, bathing can be stressful for some dogs, as some just tolerate it better than others. For those pups who are particularly skiddish, consider brewing some chamomile tea to calm your dog. Thirty minutes before you bathe, give your dog a cooled cup of chamomile tea with honey, (and yourself) followed by a dog treat that’s rich in carbohydrates, like our Antioxidant Health Bars. The carbohydrates will help deliver the calming tea straight to your dog’s brain. Better yet, you can both sit down with some tea and play soothing music, to set a calming tone for your upcoming grooming session. You can also give your dog tea during the grooming session. As we’ve already mentioned, just make sure the tea has cooled off (no hotter than room temperature).
I recommend the use of a grooming apron with pockets that covers you from chest to mid-thighs, to protect your clothes. While you can always put your clothes in the laundry later, dog hair can be difficult to remove from a washing machine. A full apron not only protects your clothes, in the pockets you can keep treats, shampoo, conditioner and a brush. The treats you choose must smell appealing to your dog – like our Tasty Rewards Training Treats – and keeping them in your apron pockets will leave your hands free for grooming.
If your dog is of a long-haired breed, (Barbara has a cockapoo) brush with a fine-tooth comb prior to bathing, so you don’t have to contend with knots while shampooing, potentially making a bad problem worse.
DURING THE GROOMING SESSION
Whether you bathe your dog in the tub or the backyard, sit on a low stool to prevent stress or injury to your back and knees. If you’re outside, I advise that you use a six-foot leash. Tie it around your waist or hook it on your belt to free up your hands and prevent your dog from slipping away for a sudsy romp.
If you’re using water from an outdoor hose, keep in mind that, while it might be warm outside, the water will feel cold to your dog, not always without substantial discomfort. If at all possible, use tepid water, either by running extension hoses from the sink in your house, or simply bathe your dog indoors in a tub.
When you apply the shampoo, make small circles with a hairbrush with plastic nubs to distribute the shampoo evenly through the hair and onto the skin. This will also exfoliate the skin and allow the herbs in the shampoo to penetrate the skin. Leave the shampoo on for about three minutes, but don’t allow it to dry as this can irritate the skin. Our Revitalizing Shampoo suds well, rinses easily, and features rosemary to help increase blood flow, ultimately contributing to healthier skin and hair.
Most animals really don’t enjoy having their heads washed, so I suggest that you simply wet the head using a wash cloth. That way, you’ll be sure to prevent shampoo from entering the eyes or ears, making the entire experience more enjoyable for your canine companion.
AFTER THE GROOMING SESSION
I recommend towel drying your dog versus using a blowdryer, which can excessively dry or even burn skin, and frighten some dogs with the sound. The best method for towel drying is by patting rather than using a circular motion, which can often lead to matting. BE careful!
In most cases, you’ll be able to see an immediate change in your dog’s appearance following a bath. You’ll know that you’re using a high quality shampoo when your dog has a shinier, fuller coat, less dander and no more “doggie smell”. With moisture-activated odor neutralizers, our Revitalizing Shampoo features antioxidants and organic extracts of rosemary and sage, nutritive herbs that penetrate into the hair shaft and promote coat health. Also included are kiwi and mango essences, selected because they too enhance the health of the skin, as well as leaving your dog’s coat smelling clean and fresh.
You should not bathe your dog more often than every two-to-three weeks. If your dog’s coat could do with some freshening in between baths, use Bath Fresh Mist to neutralize odors and condition the skin and coat. This product is so simple to use … just spray and brush into in the coat. You will love the aroma and your dog will love the attention!
And what about you? Do you have any “must-know” grooming tips that you’d like to share with your fellow blog readers? Be sure to leave your thoughts in the comments section below.
Thank you for all you do to make the world a better place for companion animals!
Dr. Jane Bicks
Black Lab is Loyal to her dead companion laying in the road
On April 13th I read on my Facebook page that this black Lab was found in LA laying in the road next to her dead companion, a dog. We all hope for such a friendship. It even reminded me of my last dog, Moki, that I rescued in 2002. She was found in the Moab desert laying next to her dead owner (who had been dead for at least 3 days) after her owner had committed suicide.
On Friday the 13th of April, I re-posted and shared this story with FB, Friends, Family, etc. Always helping to spread the word on dogs that need to be adopted and rescued. Any animal, in fact. I re-posted it to Haute Dogs in Long Beach and any place I thought it would get attention. I also accessed my personal email of animal lovers. My neighbor, Ricci had a great idea. She said let’s email KTLA, NBC and ABC and see if anyone will pick up the story and air it this weekend.
The story was very sad as this black Labrador lay next to her friend…NO ONE would stop and help the two dogs. As you can see in the video cars kept driving by at a fast pace. That was more heart break on top of what had already happened. One by-stander took the video and stated that an LA police officer was standing there chuckling at the sight of folks videoing, etc. Why didn’t he stop traffic? Not sure if that is fact, but I cringe to think if it was in fact, true.
KTLA and Channel 4 (in LA California area) picked up the story and after it was aired…tons of phone calls came in. “Grace” was adopted today and will be in her forever home. This feels so good to have a hand in this…and 3 cheers to my neighbor and dog sitter…Ricci! It takes a village!
Let this be a strong lesson….Re post and share. Build community. Speak up and spread the word. Let things or issues be visible on what is important to you and in your heart. We CAN MAKE a difference! YOU can Make A Difference. Believe it and see it through. Even when you feel defeated, there is always more that can be done!
Even if you help just ONE LIFE, Friendship or have a positive effect, it adds to the greater good of us all. Yahoo!!!!!!
BEST PET FOOD-if you want to treat your dog’s system with the healthiest food, we even deliver to your door…
Chicken Jerky is TOXIC and DEADLY for your pet (from China)
Be careful! and read labels.

Story at-a-glance
- Over four years and hundreds of sick and dead pets since their first warning to consumers, the FDA continues to proceed at a snail’s pace investigating just what the problem is with chicken jerky treats from China.
- Fed up pet owners have begun to involve their elected officials in demanding faster and more decisive action from the FDA. Pet owners have also teamed up to put pressure on retailers to voluntarily pull chicken jerky treats made in China off store shelves.
- An internal FDA document obtained by a major media outlet mentions three brands of pet treats contained in reports from pet owners and veterinarians.
- Predictably, the pet food companies in question and the FDA continue to insist there is no link between sick pets and chicken jerky treats.
- Under no circumstances should pet owners offer chicken jerky treats, tenders or strips from China to their dog or cat. Buy pet food products made in the U.S., or even better — make your own chicken jerky treats right at home
The FDA’s position is they will not implicate nor recall products until a specific contaminant has been identified. The agency maintains chicken jerky treat samples have been tested for drugs, poisons, mycotoxins, heavy metals and certain chemicals, yet the problem remains a mystery.
But while the FDA seems content to remain clueless about what’s causing the problem, pet owners and veterinarians in the U.S., Canada and Australia have their own suspicions. These include:
- Ongoing melamine contamination
- Irradiation of ingredients in jerky treats
- An as-yet unidentified chemical preservative
- Diethyelene glycol (a toxin)
Meanwhile, a grassroots group calling itself Animal Parents Against Pet Treats Made in China is working — with little success so far — to have retailers voluntarily pull potentially tainted chicken jerky pet treats off store shelves.
The Number of Sick and Dead Pets Continues to Climb
According to MSNBC.com, by February 10th of this year, the FDA had received 537 reports of sick dogs. That number included 353 from 2011 and 184 so far in 2012.
(Please note: The number of reported incidents varies tremendously depending on the source, thus I’m also seeing a total of 596 new reports just since the last FDA warning in November 2011ii . That would mean in about 4 months’ time there have been nearly 600 new reports of illness and death in pets who ate chicken jerky treats made in China. I’m not sure which sets of figures are correct. The situation is absolutely unacceptable, regardless.)
Symptoms include loss of appetite, vomiting, diarrhea (sometimes bloody), increased thirst and/or urination, and decreased activity.
Symptoms appear within a few hours to days after a dog eats the chicken jerky treats. Pets who become severely ill or have symptoms lasting more than 24 hours should be seen by a veterinarian immediately.
Blood tests may show markers for kidney failure. Urinalysis may point to acquired Fanconi syndrome.
Fortunately, most sick dogs have fully recovered, however, an increasing number of deaths are also being reported.
RESOURCE: Dr Becker
“Egg product” is an ingredient in many lower quality commercial pet foods
Posted By: Dr. Becker , April 2012 |

Story at-a-glance
- Recently the Canadian government awarded a grant to a company that makes pet food ingredients from egg waste products. Healthy?
- The company claims their powdered egg product has up to 50 percent protein, and their egg white binding agent is 80 percent protein. What they don’t mention, of course, is how much of this processed powdered protein is actually useful to the body of dogs and cats. Not every food high in protein is appropriate for canines and felines.
- Whole egg waste comes from egg grading facilities, egg breaking facilities, and hatcheries. Exactly how it is transformed into powdered egg product for the pet food market isn’t clear.
- “Egg product” is an ingredient in many lower quality commercial pet foods. It’s up to pet owners to guess whether this egg product came from eggs fit for human consumption, or egg waste products.
- Hopefully, by leaving pet foods containing egg product on store shelves, we are discouraging the practice of repurposing human food waste as nutrition for our beloved four-legged companions.
- Yes, good to USE the whole product and not let food go to waste but where is the limit? and when do we stop feeding the NOT SO NUTRTIOUS stuff to our animals?
- Make sure you are aware of the BEST and HEALTHY Pet food you are feeding your pet
- By Dr. Becker: Last year, an economic development program in Canada awarded a large grant to help a former egg processing plant re-open as a business that converts egg waste into pet food ingredients.
The plant, which had been closed for four years, now processes whole egg waste from egg grading plants to produce powdered pet food ingredients.
It also extracts egg whites from discarded egg shells and produces liquid egg white that is used as a binding agent in pet food.
According to the company, the powdered egg product has up to 50 percent protein, and the egg white binding agent is 80 percent protein.
Government officials feel the grant is helping to turn “… something that was considered waste unto a usable product.” They also hope the re-opening of the plant will benefit the community and create jobs.
I’m all for finding ways to make use of food waste products, for example, as an energy source or as fertilizer.
But I’m certainly not in favor of repurposing waste as nutrition for dogs and cats.
In the U.K., egg and egg products not fit or intended for human consumption are considered animal by-products.
They fall into the same category as manure and digestive tract content, hides and skins, wool, feathers, semen, ova and embryos, shellfish shells and “other products of animal origin.”
“Whole Egg Waste”
According to a U.S. pet food ingredient manufacturer who sells dried egg product, there are three main sources of the whole egg waste used in pet food: ‘Grader,’ ‘Breaker,’ and ‘Hatchery.’
Grader egg waste comes from egg processing facilities that sell to supermarkets. These eggs need to look appealing when grocery shoppers open the carton. Any egg with a cracked or dirty shell is tossed into an ‘inedible’ bin.
Breaker egg waste comes from facilities that use eggs in prepared or frozen mixes used by restaurants, bakers and other food service outlets. The waste that comes from breaker eggs is mostly egg white left after the yolk is separated.
These two types of whole egg waste are, according to the pet food ingredient company, collected daily, kept refrigerated, and dried within a day of collection.
Hatchery waste is liquid from eggs that didn’t hatch. It tends to lead to foul odors in the dried egg product, so it presumably isn’t used as often as the other two types of whole egg waste.
All three categories of eggs have been deemed unfit for human consumption.
How Does Whole Egg Waste Become Powdered Egg Product for Pet Food?
With the exception of hatchery waste, whole egg waste products don’t seem as objectionable as many other by-products found in commercial pet food.
Certainly fresh, whole eggs – preferably from organically raised chickens – provide a better source of nutrition. But egg whites and the fresh contents of broken or dirty eggshells aren’t in and of themselves problem ingredients.
However, in order to make use of whole egg waste in commercial pet food, it must be processed in some manner. It must become ‘egg product’ with a reasonably long shelf life. Remember the plant in Canada is producing ‘powdered egg product.’
AAFCO definition of egg product:
“Product obtained from egg graders, egg breakers, and/or hatchery operations that is dehydrated, handled as liquid or frozen. These shall be labeled as per USDA regulations governing eggs and egg products (9CFR, Part 59). This product shall be free of shells or other non-egg materials except in such amounts which might occur unavoidably in good processing practices, and contain a maximum ash content of 6% on a dry matter basis.”
Not surprisingly, it’s incredibly difficult to find out how egg waste product is processed for the pet food market. However, according to the American Egg Board, dried egg products for human consumption are typically produced through spray drying.
Before the egg white is dried, glucose is removed to increase storage stability, and sometimes ‘whipping aids’ are added. Sodium lauryl sulfate, used as a volume enhancer, is also added.
When long storage stability is required, glucose is also removed from whole egg and yolk products before drying. In some cases, glucose-free corn syrup and sucrose are added to improve storage stability.
Egg Waste Isn’t a High Quality Protein Source for Pets
My greatest concern with egg waste product in commercial pet food is that it is commonly used to cheaply inflate the amount of protein contained in the formula.
And I suspect not only the powdered egg product is being used to inflate protein percentages, but also the binding agent derived from egg whites.
In Life’s Abundance Pet food,k the digestibility of the protein your pet is fed is key. It doesn’t matter how high the protein percentage in a certain food is if your dog or cat can’t digest it and make use of it as high quality nutrition.
Bioavailability is the measure of how efficiently food nutrients (the amino acids in protein) are absorbed and used by the cells of the body after digestion. The bioavailability of a whole egg is 100 – the gold standard for bioavailability.
The bioavailability of egg waste product is … who knows? So while the egg waste product manufacturers boast protein amounts of 50 percent and 80 percent, how much if any of that processed egg waste protein actually benefits your pet … is unknown.
Egg waste products are not a source of egg shell membrane, the recently discovered joint protective agent that many people are finding beneficial for their pets. In fact, no one really knows why ethical pet food manufacturers would choose to use egg waste product in their pet food, other than to provide a cheap way to bolster protein percentages on the pet food label.
Generally speaking, it’s easy to find dried egg product on the list of ingredients in lesser quality commercial pet foods. The better the food, the less likely it will be to contain this ingredient.
My recommendation for those of you who feed commercially available canned or dry pet food formulas is to skip anything with egg product on the ingredient list. There’s just no way to tell what it is, exactly … or where it came from … or how it was processed before being mixed into your pet’s prepared food.
If you want to feed eggs to your healthy dog or cat, I recommend going with whole fresh eggs, preferably locally raised. You can feed them either raw or lightly cooked. If you cook them, leave the yolks intact to preserve the omega-3 fatty acids.
If the commercial food you serve your pet is a brand you like and trust, and it also contains egg product, you can give the manufacturer a call or send them an email and ask where they source their egg product. It may or may not be egg waste product, and the response you receive may ease your mind about the quality of the nutrition you’re feeding your dog or cat.
References:
- defra
- 3D Corporate Solutions LLC
- American Egg Board
- Dr. Becker
Tips for your Dog and Cats Dental Care-READ THIS!
Three Toothsome Tips for Canine Dental Health
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You may be groaning inwardly at another post on canine periodontal disease, but the doggone truth is, many of us pet parents could stand to freshen up on the topic. That’s not a guess, it’s a fact: 17 out of 20 dogs over the age of three have some level of periodontal disease that needs treatment. One of the most common canine diseases, it’s also one of the most easily prevented. Dental disease not only “stinks” at the source, it’s also known to negatively impact the health of the whole body. It’s not a stretch to say that to have true wellness, your dog’s teeth and gums need to be as healthy as possible. I know all of you are busy, so I’ll briefly cover the three most salient points to remember when it comes to canine dental care. You might want to take notes, or simply print this out for reference, as there will be an oral exam. At least, I certainly hope so!
1. Dental Disease Can Be Painful, Even Deadly
I’m sure all of you know that dental disease causes “doggie breath”, but you may not be aware that chronic inflammation can cause pain, lead to infections, and serves as a precursor to much more serious issues. For instance, severe periodontal disease is significantly correlated with increased risk of heart disease, such as infected heart valves (Glickman et al., 2009). Chronically inflamed and infected gums also increase the risk for kidney disease, limiting the amount of toxins they can purify from the blood (Glickman et al., 2011). I’d ask that you keep in mind that inflamed and infected gums are just as painful for dogs as they are for humans, potentially lowering your companion animal’s quality of life. The bottom line is, a healthier mouth makes for a happier dog!
2. For Dental Disease, There is No Magic Bullet
Even though periodontal disease is all-too-common, many veterinary researchers are still baffled by its causes, and therefore, the best method for prevention. We do know that plaque-forming bacteria play a role. A recent study (Riggio et al., 2011) showed a wide diversity of canine oral flora, both in health and disease states, including previously undiscovered species of bacteria!
Not knowing exactly what’s going on makes it especially difficult to find a cure, but that hasn’t stopped big companies from trying. In 2006, pharmaceutical giant Pfizer introduced a vaccine for periodontal disease, aimed at targeting three specific bacteria associated with periodontitis (including Porphyromonas denticanis, P. gulae, and P. salivosa). Following the release of the vaccine, Pfizer Animal Health conducted a 4-year review to determine the true effectiveness of the vaccine. Not surprising to me, there was no demonstrable reduction in the progression of periodontal disease, and the company discontinued this product in April of 2011. As a holistic veterinarian, I don’t usually put much faith in vaccines, other than core vaccinations.
Simply put, when it comes to periodontal disease, there are no magic bullets.
3. An Ounce of Prevention is Your Best Bet
Recent studies indicate that treatment of canine periodontal disease may not resolve the attendant inflammation, which means negative repercussions may continue for some time (Rawlinson et al., 2011). The only dependable method is to try and prevent onset of the disease in the first place. I can’t stress this enough … for the most part, periodontal disease is preventable! I strongly encourage you to make canine dental care a top priority at an early age. Your efforts will be rewarded, as proper dental can improve your dog’s chances of long-term health.
The most effective way to prevent gum disease is to brush your dog’s teeth on a regular basis. Don’t worry if you don’t know how – simply watch this Dr. Sarah video to learn the proper technique. In addition to routine brushing, a sound, wholesome diet provides a great foundation for health, and feeding your dog Life’s Abundance Gourmet Dental Treats will provide additional nutrients to help support healthy teeth and bones. Our Dental Treats also feature a variety of whole grains, added calcium, extra phosphorous and even a dash of parsley to help freshen breath.
If your pup already has tartar build-up and evidence of gum disease, do not despair! Make an appointment today to have her teeth cleaned and any infections treated. Soon, she’ll be back on the road to wellness.
Thank you for all you do to make the world a better place for companion animals. (Dr. Jane is the one that formulated these treats and Life’s Abundance Pet food. She was seeing all the disease that pets were having when she worked as a traditional Vet. This spurred her to dig in and see what was causing yeast in ears, skin problems, etc. Check out the food…and it gets delivered to your house!)
Dr. Jane Bicks
References
Riggio MP, Lennon A, Taylor DJ, Bennett D. Molecular identification of bacteria associated with canine periodontal disease. Vet Microbiol. 2011 Jun 2;150(3-4):394-400. Epub 2011 Mar 10.
Rawlinson JE, Goldstein RE, Reiter AM, Attwater DZ, Harvey CE. Association of periodontal disease with systemic health indices in dogs and the systemic response to treatment of periodontal disease. J Am Vet Med Assoc. 2011 Mar 1;238(5):601-9.
Glickman LT, Glickman NW, Moore GE, Lund EM, Lantz GC, Pressler BM. Association between chronic azotemic kidney disease and the severity of periodontal disease in dogs. Prev Vet Med. 2011 May 1;99(2-4):193-200. Epub 2011 Feb 23.
Glickman LT, Glickman NW, Moore GE, Goldstein GS, Lewis HB. Evaluation of the risk of endocarditis and other cardiovascular events on the basis of the severity of periodontal disease in dogs. J Am Vet Med Assoc. 2009 Feb 15;234(4):486-94.
Beard G, Emily P, Milligan & Williams C: American Animal Hospital Association, Veterinary Dentistry, Course I, 1989.
a dog and a gopher
I took my dog to Seal Beach Dog Park (March 25th 2012) and saw this incredible sight.
Julie, the English Pointer, was focused on a gopher hole. Suddenly I saw the gopher pop up and Julie was mesmerized. Keeping her focus on that cute little critter. This gopher would touch her nose to the dog’s nose. What???? A connection? Friendship? ADORABLE!!!
The dog’s owner said that Julie has killed the gophers in his backyard…but NOT at this park. He joked that this gopher is “Julie’s Pet”. I was in awe. Gotta watch this!
REMEMBER TO CHECK OUT OUR PRODUCTS PAGE for great items…Especially #1 pet food and it is delivered to your door! healthy, holistic and never on recall list!
Rawhide is Dangerous to give to your Dogs!!
RAWHIDE is deadly. They should be taken off the shelves!
Rawhide is not digestible and it expands in the stomach. The compressed rawhide is just as bad.
My friend’s dog died from Rawhide twisting in her intestines.
Never give a dog any lamb bones. They splinter into vicious shards. We stay safe as we can, no bones of any kind, and definitely no rawhide.
The best is to buy them raw bones from the butcher, they are very cheap. Messy yes, but the dogs love them, they are highly digestible and good for their teeth. Never give a dog chicken bones either. Especially if they are cooked as they splinter and get stuck in the soft palate and the esophagus.
You can also purchase the natural smoked bones.
Make sure it is Digestible and best to keep an eye on them…so do it when you are around. Play it safe. If you leave them with something to OCCUPY themselves, best to fill an empty bone or kong with peanut butter and a Treat stuffed inside.
Bully sticks are also good if you dog needs something to chew on to keep him/her occupied.
The Red Cross offers pet CPR classes for both cat & dog. I highly recommend every pet owner take this class!! You can also learn pet CPR on Youtube.
Dog Aggressive? In their genes?
Just Passing this on from my neighbor in LB. I know if a dog is “fixed” they are less likely to display extroverted behavior. But always educate yourselves (and be as mindful as you can to warrant any situations that could occur) as any Pet Responsible Parent should do.
“The article below was written by my good friend Tia Maria Torres (Founder, Villalobos Rescue Center and Animal Planets “Pitbulls and Parolees”)
Even though this article focuses on Pit Bulls, it pretty much applies to any breed of dog that has exhibited the behavioral issues described below. You know, the behaviors that most people write off as “He/She always does that” or “He/She is just playing”, etc. Believe me, I see this all the time
Bottom line, people will bring Pit Bulls to a dog park; therefore, just wanted to give you some food for thought.
Cathy
______________________________
“This is probably the biggest argument among the Pit Bull forums…..is it the way they’re raised or…..is it “in their genes?” So for “argument’s sake”…let’s get ready to rumble! To answer this question you need to go back in time to what makes up the Pit Bull type dog. The first thing that comes to my mind is “terrier”. Helloooo??? Can we say “feisty, scrappy and always on the go???” So common sense tells us that because of the “terrier” in the American Pit Bull Terrier or the American Staffordshire Terrier…..this is a dog that is going to keep us on our toes. Think of the Jack Russell Terrier…..yes that little dog that just keeps on going and going and going This is a breed that was bred for chasing down unwanted rodents. Thus the term “animal aggression” comes into play. And let’s face it, Jack Russells are not only one of the smartest dogs ever, but they have the energy level of a tornado! They are like this because it’s “genetic”. Not all are like this but let’s face it…most are. This is the life of a terrier.
Then you have your Labradors who love water. Again, not all but most. Then there are the Border Collies and Australian Shepherds who on a split second impulse will “chase” down anything that moves and herd it into whatever corner of the yard seems best. I know this by experience because my parents had Welsh Corgis and as kids we were constantly getting nipped in the ass and on the back of our legs. Why? It’s called “genetics!” My parents never taught our Corgis to do this. Even as puppies they were constantly chasing our horses.
…
Okay so back to our breed. If I had a dime…Hell…a penny, for everyone that emailed or called and said, “I don’t know what happened. My Pit Bull has been great with other dogs and then ALL OF A SUDDEN he attacked my neighbor’s dog or went after a dog at the dog park” and of course my knee jerk response is always….”ah….what’s the question?” It’s like saying…”I don’t know what’s wrong with my Lab….he won’t stay out of the swimming pool”.
Now here’s where the argument begins. There are those of us that have been around these dogs for not only years but have dealt with them in large amounts whether it be working at a shelter, or a vet’s or a groomer, trainer, whatever. We sit back and say….”well……ah…..well….that’s what Pit Bulls do sometimes.” But then you have the group of owners who believe…….oh geez…..I’m preparing my flame retardant suit……the group that says….:”it’s all in how you raise them.” Okay….kinda.
Here’s the dealio. Some of you have Pits that will NEVER EVER display dog aggression. Great! Congratulations! And yes, some of that should be credited to you as an owner for not putting your dog in a situation that warrants him/her to have to fight back. But more than likely you just got lucky and your Pit just has a kick back temperament combined with a lifestyle that keeps him out of harm’s way and trust me…I wish all Pit Bulls could live like that.
But truthfully, in dealing with hundreds to thousands in my rescue career, most Pit Bulls that have come thru here, display some form of dog aggression. Maybe not full blown, “I want to kill another dog” but even so much as giving each other the “stink eye” has caused a ruckus. I’m not saying that your dogs are going to “snap” (geez I hate that word) and all of a sudden go on a doggie killing spree. But what I am saying is that most Pit Bulls (yeah yeah, go ahead and cuss me out) have that “genetic make up” of dog aggression. And though they may never display it, to deny it exists, is only potentially putting your dog in a situation that may cause him/her to fail. All I’m saying is just be aware that it may surface if pushed too hard (example: allowing a bunch of ignorant dog owners at the dog park to have their dogs run up on your Pit Bull) and you just need to be that “defensive driver” for your Pit Bull’s sake.
When out in public, I never ever let some stranger come up to me with their dog and do the….”oh can my dog meet your dog?” Ah….that would be a big fat “NO”. Don’t let your Pit run off leash out in public. You never know what idiot may be around the corner. And I know this one is gonna piss some people off but I don’t recommend dog parks. Good way to not only set your dog up for failure but the “what if” a dog fight happens. You’ve now put your Pit on the defensive and there is a good chance that he/she may now want to go after every dog he encounters. I’ve had dogs like this come to my training class after a bad dog park encounter and it takes some time to “unring that bell”. Instead maybe find some people you trust and who’s dogs you know and create play dates.
So no one says you have to take my words to heart but at least I can tell you these words come from 18 years and thousands of Pit Bulls later. I’ve learned from my mistakes and I would rather be safe than sorry. Like I said, if your Pit is dog friendly….HOORAY!! I’m jealous. But still just “be aware” and at least practice “safe Pit”
If you ever had a pit that was so sweet and never aggressive-we’d like to have you comment.
If you have had a Pit or other breed that “switched” behaviors for no apparent reason…please let us know your story below. Check out our products page…many things to order at discounted prices...especially the TOP NOTCH healthy, digestible Pet food.




